Ringo-ya Ryokan in Zao Onsen: A Rustic, Showa-Era Stay at a Hot-Spring Inn

Zao is a small, traditional onsen town in Yamagata with limited accommodation options.

But, desperate as I was to stay here for our ski trip, I frantically searched and scored a few consecutive nights at Ringo-ya (林檎屋, meaning “Apple Inn”).

Ringo-ya ryokan is right across from Zao’s hottest public onsen, Shimo-yu

But, to my non-surprise, the place had a much more interesting atmosphere, history, and Show-era feel than the photos or reviews led me to expect.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through these links, I earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
 

After staying four nights, Ringo-ya turned out to be the perfect place to discover Zao for a first-time visitor like me.

I learned from the owner (Ryo) that the building dates back to the 1960s, hence its rustic character. Sure, the hallways were frigid in early mornings, typical of an old building heated by gas stoves in Japanese winter, but despite its flaws, it had everything we needed for a lovely ski holiday.

In this review, I’m sharing what it’s really like to stay at Ringo-ya — who it’s best for, what to know before booking, and whether I’d stay here again on a return trip to Zao.

Zao’s Sukawa Onsen Shrine is just a couple of minutes’ walk away from Ringo-ya

Quick Look: Ringo-ya Ryokan (Zao Onsen)

  • Name on Booking website: 蔵王温泉 林檎屋 (Ringo-ya) 🍎
  • Location: Right in the heart of Zao Onsen, just opposite Shimo-yu Onsen, and a 5-minute walk (in ski boots!) to Station #3
  • Rooms: Tatami-mat rooms with futon bedding (we booked a Twin Room)
  • Bathing: Communal onsen (segregated; no in-room showers)
  • On-site: Attached restaurant, plus their in-house ski/snowboard rental shop

Location: Staying in the Heart of Zao Onsen

Ringo-ya is probably one of the best-located places to stay in Zao Onsen village.

Ringo-ya ryokan is located on Takayu Street; it’s pretty at night!

It’s just up the main Takayu Street, very near all three of Zao’s historic onsen bathhouses (your ryokan will have free passes for them), and a 5-minute walk from the ski lifts and cable car (though it feels longer in ski boots!).

Overall, and compared to other accommodations in the area, it’s fairly central to the onsen town’s main streets, rental shops, and restaurants.

Plus, the bus terminal for getting back to Yamagata Station is just at the bottom of the street, so we were able to walk to the ryokan with our backpacks and a rolling suitcase (stuffed with ski gear!).

Rooms at Ringo-ya Ryokan

Rooms at Ringo-ya, to our surprise, were spacious, with a traditional tatami layout and an open living space with two futon beds, plus a carpeted area by the window with retro furniture.

The rooms are simple and cute, equipped with the basics:

  • Tatami flooring
  • Low table and seating
  • Traditional sliding windows (shōji; ours had a nice view of the slopes!)
  • Heating! Very important in winter 😅
  • Television (didn’t use)
  • Storage closets
  • Small entrance area for shoes
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The only possible downside is that the toilets are shared and the sinks are in the hallway. While clean and well kept, the facilities are fairly dated, typical of older onsen ryokan.

Also, the only shower facilities are in the communal onsen, on the first floor by reception.

The Onsen: Communal Bathing

Good to know before you go is that at Ringo-ya, as in most traditional accommodations in Japan, their “shower” is a shared, gender-segregated onsen, and it’s the only place to wash during your stay.

This ryokan’s onsen was small, quite hot (heated to roughly 43 °C), and had two showering stations inside the onsen room (aka stools with shower heads and soap/shampoo for washing before entering onsen baths, typical of Japanese bathhouses).

This way of bathing may feel awkward at first and unfamiliar to you if you’ve never stayed in an old ryokan before, but it’s very normal across the countryside, especially in long-established onsen towns like Zao, and is part of the experience!

I promise you get used to it! 🧼

That said, if you are looking for fully private bathrooms or in-room showers, be aware before booking.

Dining, Ski Rentals & On-Site Facilities

What we found really convenient was that Ringo-ya was more than just a hotel!

Apple Restaurant

A cozy udon soup + Yamagata sake to warm up!

It also served breakfast and dinner (for guests and non-guests) at its on-site restaurant, so we tried breakfast on the first morning before hitting the slopes. But after that, we ended up going next door to Have a Good Slice for their breakfast plates with salad, egg, bacon, and thick toast!

Dinner at Apple is great, and it’s convenient on very snowy nights when you don’t want to go back out to look for food. Their menu features local Yamagata sake, udon soup, Yamagata beef bowls, fried gyoza, and other snacks.

On-site Apple Ski Rental in Zao

Ski gear rental (boots, skis, poles) starts at ¥5,500

Perhaps the biggest perk for us was being able to rent all of our ski gear (skis, helmets, goggles, poles, and boots) at their in-house Apple Rental shop (located on the 2nd floor). Ski gear packages start at 5,500 JPY.

Our total cost for three full days, including helmets and goggles, came to roughly $50 USD per person per day, which was a bit steeper than expected for a small ski town. (For reference, our ski gear rental at Shiga Kogen in Nagano from the previous ski trip cost about half.)

But, honestly, being able to rent gear (and store it) without leaving our accommodation was a huge practical bonus for our stay.

The staff were also kind to let us store our luggage for several hours after check-out so that we could roam the town on our last day.

Who I Think This Ryokan Is Best For

Zao has more great ryokans and hotels (check out my Where to Stay in Zao Onsen Guide), so I want to step back from our great experience here and be objective.

I think Ringo-ya is a good fit if you:

  • Want a traditional onsen ryokan experience without luxury
  • Are comfortable with communal bathing!
  • Plan to ski or snowboard in Zao (hopefully so!)
  • Prefer practical, local accommodation
  • Enjoy older buildings with character and history

It may not be ideal if you:

  • Need a private bathroom or in-room shower
  • Prefer modern or boutique hotel design
  • Are uncomfortable with shared onsen facilities
  • Don’t really need ski/snowboard gear

Overall, the value per price/night was good, although not cheap. During peak ski season, expect to pay around $180 per night or more to stay in Zao.

Would I Stay at Ringo-ya Again?

Absolutely! In fact, take me back right now. 😅

We had an awesome three full days of skiing Zao’s powder, and Ringo-ya ryokan felt like the perfect fit for our trip.

For a traditional, historic onsen town like Zao, I wouldn’t want to stay in some chic hotel anyway. While rustic, the facilities were comfy and clean, and the location, ski rental, and hot springs worked out perfectly.

That said, I wouldn’t be against looking for other ryokans in Zao like Yoshidaya with similar value — and there seem to be a few that do a wonderful job.

So, in short — yes! I’d stay here again, especially for another winter holiday to ski and soak.

All in all, if you’re looking for a fancy ryokan experience, there are other options in Zao. But if you want something local, practical, and reflective of the town’s historic charm, Ringo-ya delivers exactly that.

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