Where to Stay in Zao Onsen (Winter Guide to Ryokan, Hotels & Ski Access)
Zao Onsen is quickly gaining traction as a must-see, must-ski onsen town during Japan’s magical winter, with places to stay booking up months in advance.
That was the case for us until we lucked out and booked consecutive nights at Ringo-ya Hot Spring Inn (my review linked).
While Zao Onsen is small, it’s not as compact as Nozawa Onsen, which has two main lifts. This is important because Zao feels more like a spread-out mountain town, with multiple lift stations feeding different parts of the larger ski area.
Meaning that where you choose to stay will significantly impact your experience!
Specifically, on how crowded the station lines get (especially since the Station #1 Gondola gives priority access to day-trippers or guided Ginzan Onsen + Zao tours with lift tickets to see the Zao snow monsters), how far you walk in ski boots, and how easy it is to move between skiing, soaking in Zao’s bathhouses, and village shops and restaurants.
In this hotel guide, I’m sharing an insider’s look at Zao’s ryokans and hotels, plus town and ski layout, including where we stayed for a winter ski trip.
Top 9 Ryokan & Hotels in Zao Onsen, Yamagata (Winter Guide)
If you want to stay centrally in Zao (and I recommend that you do), then note that the main gondola area (Lift Station 1) is where most people start for skiing, as it provides first access to the Jizō summit ropeway/lift station at the top of Mt. Jizō in Zao — the area near the snow monsters (juhyō).
That said, it’s also the most congested station, especially mid-morning and on weekends, with wait times up to two hours just to board. If you’re a skier or snowboarder, that’s a lot of wasted powder time!!
As our hotel recommended, we instead started the day at Lift Station 3.
If you can find accommodation around here (see below recs!), or slightly higher up the mountain near Lift Station 5, then you’ll be much better suited for getting out early on the slopes from your hotel.
Read more below for a roundup of the best places to stay in Zao Onsen, organized with the ski town layout in mind.
Ringo-ya (Apple Onsen Yado Inn)
- Where we stayed! Central, rustic, and a traditional onsen ryokan
- Tatami rooms + communal onsen (no in-room showers)
- Close to the central lift area (Lift Station 3) and village bathhouses
Ringo-ya (Apple Inn) was our accommodation for four nights in mid-January, and we’re very satisfied with our experience!
It’s great if you want to stay in the heart of Zao Onsen village while avoiding the worst congestion of the main gondola. Its location makes it easy to reach the bus station, bathhouses, restaurants, and stations — all on foot.
As I noted in my Ringo-ya review, the ryokan itself is old-school and vintage. The rooms feature traditional tatami and futon bedding, and there is also a communal onsen, with an on-site dining and ski-rental shop. We would come back from skiing, soak, eat, and repeat!
This is a good choice if you want a balanced winter stay: easy skiing, walkable village, onsen access, and a place that feels local.
Petit Resort Hotel Der Barte
- Alpine hotel directly on the ski run near Zao Skycable (Station 5)
- Ski-in / ski-out access
- Western-style rooms with on-site dining
If your priority is maximum time on snow, Petit Resort Hotel Der Barte is one of the most straightforward choices in Zao because it’s located directly on the slopes!
This is a genuine ski-in / ski-out lodge in Zao — you step outside, and you’re already on the mountain. In fact, we walked in the snow among skiiers/snowboarders on our last day to see if they were open for breakfast (they weren’t 😂).
I can’t speak for the room service, but we did manage to snag a cake break here during one of our full ski days, and the staff was very friendly. Loved the style and the classical vinyl music!
Lodge Scole
- Alpine-style lodge with rooms + restaurant
- Convivial dining space — has awesome smash burgers!
- Located closer to Lift Station 5, higher up the mountain
If you walk to the left of the beautiful shrine in town, and a ways up the road, you’ll find Lodge Scole.
This place is closer to Station 5 (an uphill walk) but is a favorite among skiers for its social, après-ski atmosphere and good food — especially the smash burgers!!
We came here with friends one night and had a great time, but it definitely seems like a more family-friendly ski resort.
Takamiya Hotel Hammond
- Boutique onsen hotel with good village access
- Easy walk to lifts
- Comfortable rooms with hot springs
Right next door to Lodge Skole, you’ll find Takamiya Hotel Hammond.
This is where our new powder friends stayed for a few nights, and they said the onsen and hotel facilities were gorgeous (they also stayed at Ringo-ya at the same time as us!).
Hammond feels a bit more upscale, and that could be worth it for added comfort in winter. Our friends had no complaints!
Overall, a fantastic option if you want everything to be simple, cozy, and accessible during winter.
Wakamatsuya
- Traditional, more luxurious ryokan
- On-site onsen and meals
- Central village location
Wakamatsuya is a good choice if you want a deluxe ryokan experience without sacrificing location.
It’s central, making it easy to reach the slopes, cafes, and onsens in town. I’d say this is a nice middle ground between rustic inns and larger hotels.
With fewer reviews, it seems like the new kid on the street but the property looks great for a winter stay!
Le Vert Zao
- More Western resort-style hotel with on-site onsen
- Quieter but still with access to ski areas
- Good balance of comfort
Le Vert Zao is further from the village center, but it remains a good choice for skiers, being about a 7-minute walk from the main station.
Rooms are comfortable (Western-style with tatami floors), and the on-site onsen baths consistently get good reviews.
Matsukaneya Annex
- Hotel-style accommodation with an on-site onsen
- Easy access to village and ski areas
Matsukaneya Annex leans slightly more toward a hotel than a ryokan, but still fits naturally into Zao Onsen’s hotel scene.
It’s well rated for its meals, service, and cozy interiors (note that the outdoor onsen is closed in winter)!
Its location provides easy access to skiing while keeping evenings relaxed if you prefer to stay in. This is a good option if you want comfort, good meals, and a quieter end to the day.
Matsupokkuri
- Small hotel with a homey feel
- Close to lifts and bus stop
- Simple but efficient
Matsupokkuri Hotel often gets overlooked, being near the start of town. Its biggest perk is its proximity to the bus terminal, so you’re not dragging luggage around town.
It’s well-located for skiing, too, being on the way to the station, and having a nearby Lawson is always a bonus!
Their downstairs restaurant also serves delicious Yamagata beef hamburg sets — we went here for dinner!
This is a good fit if you’re looking for a simpler, but comfortable, budget-style guesthouse in Zao and don’t need many amenities beyond a warm room and a friendly base.
Yoshidaya
- Traditional ryokan with historic roots
- Communal onsen and classic atmosphere
- Central location in Zao Onsen
Finally, if Ringo-ya is booked out but you’d still like to stay on Takayu Street (where the bathhouses and shops are), check out Yoshidaya.
It’s another solid choice if you want to be near Zao’s public onsens.
If you’re like us and want to combine onsen culture + ski practicality all in one, this place will do the trick.
You can find even more places to stay by searching below:
