Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge Review: Our First Night on the Kumano Kodo
It was when I slipped into the steaming onsen and looked around at the roof, stone walls, and bobbing grapefruit in front of me that I thought it: “This place is like a North Carolinian mountain lodge meets Japanese ryokan.”
For our first night’s rest along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, I wanted to take our first day slow, since we were starting at Takijiri-oji.
And the Takahara Lodge looked like the best choice. I was right!
Located in Takahara village, also known as Kiri-no-Sato (“Village in the Mist”), this lodge is a postcard-perfect place to stay for first-timers along the Nakahechi.
On this blog, I like to review places I’ve stayed and loved (sometimes loathed), but this one is a clear winner. I’d happily recommend this accommodation option (even if it’s NOT cheap) to first-timers experiencing the Kumano Kodo (or just a remote mountain village in Japan).
If you’re looking for a quiet, calm retreat with a delicious (truly scrumptious) fireside meal and onsen baths overlooking the mountains, you’ll want to consider this lodge.
Details below!
Our Stay at Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge: Honest Review of a Kumano Kodo Minshuku
📍 Location: Takahara village on the Kumano Kodo
🛏️ Type of stay: Minshuku/lodge meets ryokan
🍱 Meals included?: Dinner + breakfast
♨️ Onsen/bath?: Shared onsen
💰 Price range: Seasonal; around $170–$200+/night
⭐ Would we stay again?: Yes, definitely! There’s a reason it’s rated 9.7/10
➡️ Check reviews
What Makes Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge Special
1. Location on the Kumano Kodo
While there are a handful of options to stay, Takahara Lodge sits right beside the Kumano Kodo trail, with rooms offering unobstructed views of the Hatenashi mountains.
For sunrise, especially, it’s beautiful and worth waking up early for (I mean, you’ll be up and out early anyway!).
From Takijiri-oji, Takahara is the next (“ideal”) place to stop. However, some hikers who leave Takijiri-oji hike a full day (14km) to Chikatsuyu and skip staying overnight in Takahara entirely. I’m glad we didn’t, though, as it was really nice to have a “slow build” start for the rest of the hike.
2. Japanese Hospitality
Aside from the view, the hosts’ hospitality was unmatched!
We felt entirely welcome, and all the small details made us feel cozy: tea, slippers, yukata, and a candle-lit dinner.
3. Onsen Baths
The onsen baths at the lodge were lovely, too, set in stone-lined baths with windows that looked out on the mountains (though they fog up quickly after you rinse/shower).
4. Homemade Meals
I loved being able to stroll to dinner and breakfast in our provided yukata robes, which were in the closet of our Japanese tatami-mat room.
Our Room at Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge
Having booked all our Kumano Kodo accommodation late (about 1.5 months in advance), many options were unavailable. Luckily, I was able to reserve their Standard Japanese-Style Room (private bathroom).
We needed nothing more; it was ideal for our short overnight.
Comfy futon beds, warm duvets, plenty of space to lounge, plus a table with a tea set, TV (which we didn’t use), closet/floor space, and a slider door that led out to a private balcony.
The best was arriving in time to read and relax in the room after our onsen bath, and to watch the room turn golden as a beautiful sunset set.
Dinner & Breakfast Experience
I’m unsure why, but I wasn’t expecting a spread for dinner. But, boy, we ate WELL and were truly satisfied with our meal, which was in the high-ceiling dining hall next to a roaring fire.
The lodge atmosphere oozed coziness, which was perfect for the still-winter, early spring temperatures outside.
Dinner was a mix from the Wakayama region — including fresh tuna sashimi, local sausage, fruits, and local sukiyaki hot pot with premium beef and mountain vegetables from their garden.
Out of everywhere we stayed on the Kumano, our best dinner meal by far was at Takahara Lodge.
You also enjoy half-board, so breakfast is included. Bento box (lunch) is optional and costs an extra 1000 JPY per person and should be reserved upon check-in the previous day.
The average nightly rate at Takahara Lodge is higher than others, likely because of its onsen baths.
These gender-separated hot springs are worth enjoying before dinner (and you should!). You can go in your yukata robes provided in your room.
As always, be sure to follow onsen etiquette: bathe naked (wash or shower beforehand) and keep your hair out of the water.
All soap/shampoo amenities are provided by the wash stations. Tattoos are not a problem!
Amenities & Practical Things to Know
If you’re thinking of staying at Takahara Lodge, here are a few good-to-knows that I was wondering about before my stay.
Luggage transfer: Available, if needed, but you’ll need to coordinate this or use the Kumano booking system in advance. (We hiked with our backpacks.)
English is not a problem at the lodge, as they’ve had many international tourists over the last 2+ decades they’ve been running.
Credit cards are accepted; however, cash is still king for small snacks and drinks.
Checkout: Due to the time required to reach Chikatsuyu, an early checkout is advised (no later than 9 am).
Bento lunch: Available for 1000 JPY; reserve for the next day at check-in. (Unfortunately, the prepared bento wasn’t as good as dinner or breakfast.)
Is Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge Worth It?
I would recommend Takahara Lodge to those already looking to stay in Takahara village — not if you plan to hike a full day to Chikatsuyu.
Some people don’t realize that Takijiri-oji to Chikatsuyu is about a 14km hike, taking much longer than it does to reach Takahara.
If you want a slower start to your Kumano experience, then stay in Takahara. Otherwise, you can skip staying in this village and opt for the Chikatsuyu or Nonaka area for your first night.
Overall, I’d say the price/value is good — still super expensive in my opinion — but worth it compared to other places we stayed and their price/value %. Considering the lodge provides all it does, and given its limited availability, it’s no wonder the prices get steep. Especially during high season.
Make sure to book in advance to secure the best rates!
Booking Tips for Kumano Kodo Pilgrims
📅 How far ahead to book: At least 2–3+ months out, preferably. I used Booking.com to book all of our ryokans and lodges. Read more in my Kumano Accommodation Guide.
🌸 Best seasons: Shoulder season to avoid the summer crowds. We went in early March!
🍱 Meal reservation advice: Most accommodations provide half-board (dinner + breakfast). Bento boxes are often reservable in advance and for an extra fee.
🧳 Luggage transfer: You can forward your luggage or opt to hike with just a 40L backpack (what we did).
💴 Cash considerations: Budget 20,000 JPY per day for extra meals, fees, or transport.
So, YES. Takahara Lodge is worth it.
I think the lodge stands out so much in my memory because it was the first night of our Kumano experience.
That said, looking back, it still is one of the nicest in terms of hospitality and amenities. The onsen before an exquisite dinner was just incredible. I couldn’t ask for more! Book it — you won’t regret it.
